Review: Six by Nico Canary Wharf

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Six by Nico Canary Wharf
Six by Nico Canary Wharf

Without a doubt, Six by Nico Canary Wharf is the best-smelling restaurant I have ever been to.

Not just the wafting aroma of the open kitchen, but the welcoming fragrance that permeated the room. Alongside the warm lighting and industrial-chic interior, the perfume helped us to feel relaxed and ready to indulge in an imaginative six-course meal.

An evening at Six by Nico is simply an experience. And, with a new restaurant opening up a short stroll away from the City in Canary Wharf and the highly anticipated ‘Once Upon a Time’ menu on the table from the start of February, we made sure we had a reservation.

The concept, started by Chef Nico Simeone in Glasgow, can now be enjoyed in Edinburgh, Belfast, Liverpool, Manchester, as well as a handful of places in London.

Fine dining on a budget, Six by Nico follows the same premise but changes the theme every six weeks. Each menu invites you to enjoy six courses (regular or vegetarian) from a tasting menu inspired by a place, memory or idea – past menus include The Mad Hatter’s Tea Party, Guilty Pleasures, The Orient Express, and Paris.

Each menu also has an accompanying flight of matching wines, an aperitif, and a snack. However, you can go order your own choice of drinks instead.

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On entering the restaurant, you’re provided with a menu created to look like a children’s story book, complete with lovely illustrations and cursive fonts. What’s more, the book includes the recipe for each course so you can attempt to recreate each dish if you’re feeling brave.

A new chef came out with each course after preparing in front of our eyes in the open kitchen. Terrifically noisy, however, it was a struggle to hear the explanations, which was a shame.

Starting with a magical cocktail with cherry sherbet, we were instantly taken back to being an eager kid making potions. Despite being a little too sweet for my taste, the quaint beginning really put us in the spirit and, much like the Cheshire Cat from Alice and Wonderland, we were grinning ear to ear in anticipation for the first course.

After a quick snack of liver pate and small doughnuts, inspired by Fantastic Mr Fox, the first course was placed in front of us. Growing on me as we tucked in, the bubbly bowl of wild garlic and pickled onion broth was a strong taste to start with.

Taking inspiration from Oliver Twist and aptly named ‘Please Sir, Can I Have Some More’, the dish was saved by miniature hasselback potato with baked mousseline.

Other courses included Matilda ‘Hey Dipface, Have a Carrot’ which was surprisingly one of my favourite dishes. The wonderful tastes and textures on the plate married each other beautifully. The sharp carrot remoulade was complemented by the sweet baked tandoori carrot and topped with fresh carrot top pesto and pickled carrot – we had never seen the vegetable in so many guises.

After a couple more show stopping courses, which included Danny, Champion of the World ‘Let’s go Trout Poaching’ sea trout and artichoke and The Ugly Duckling ‘The Most Beautiful’ duck and leg boulangerie with pickled walnut, we tucked into the beautiful dessert.

One for all the Beauty and the Beast fans (and apt as Valentine’s Day creeps up), ‘The Last Rose Petal’ is a picturesque rose created from mascarpone cream, rose hibiscus and rhubarb, finished cleverly with lemon chocolate aero.
Tasting as beautiful as it looked, the chef placed the final course in front of us and proceeded to pull the glass lid to leave an eerie steam behind. A wonderful way to end a joyful and delicious experience.

A great spot to impress a hungry bookworm this Valentine’s Day. Tap into your inner child without breaking the bank at Six By Nico Canary Wharf and enjoy ‘Once Upon a Time’ until March 13.

Six By Nico Canary Wharf
Chancellor Passage E14 5EA
Six-course tasting menu – £37
Matching wines – £33
sixbynico.co.uk

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