Lady Abercorn’s Pub & Dining opened back in January, probably with more fanfare than it deserved thanks to the promise of bottomless Yorkshire puddings with its roast dinners.
The new casual dining offering for Liverpool Street’s Andaz Hotel replaces The George pub and also comes complete with a backstory for its namesake – “a sassy, strong and caring landlady” of the East End whose menu has been inspired by her travels around the globe.
But just as nobody needs more than one edible sponge to mop up their gravy, a meal at Lady A’s could probably do without the narrative – particularly when the food is this decent.
The short a la carte menu hits several sweet spots, namely when it comes to more-ish nibbles like Ox Cheek Bon Bons with pickled walnut and horseradish and Pork Belly Bites with a sticky toffee glaze.
Mains are a lesson in red meat done right; steak sandwich rich in complex flavours thanks to a sweet currant chutney and truffled mayo, and a braised beef featherblade so tender it fell apart at the lightest nudge.
Weekend roasts are well-priced for these parts at £22.95 for three courses with your choice of beef, chicken or vegetarian Wellington, plus trimmings and those storied Yorkies in unlimited quantities.
There are lighter options during the week – stuffed peppers, steamed sea bass, a prawn and coconut curry – that are straight “from the pages of Lady A’s diary”. They, too, seem unnecessary given the clientele: mostly post-work drinkers looking to line their stomachs before getting on the train home.
But as another chicken caesar salad sails past our table and into the cluster of suits, you have to think maybe Lady A knows what she’s doing after all.
Lady Abercorn’s Pub & Kitchen, 40 Liverpool Street EC2M 7QN